Surfing in the Caribbean

Sometimes a girl just wants to have some fun. I wanted to surf today, but I couldn’t have planned today anymore perfectly. After yesterday’s conversation, both Eddie and I needed today. We have been going non-stop since we arrived in the BVI. In the beginning I was pushing so hard to find this beach (which was worth it!)  Then all the hard work we have been doing building our shelter, building water contraptions and all that is required to living off the land. Of course, I am living the life I wanted, but Eddie was starting to get worn down. I was hoping to surf today, but ever since we arrived, all I have heard is there is no surf in the Caribbean.

I awoke at dawn to see magically, there were textbook perfect breaking waves. They were small, but nicely shaped and just right for me. Eddie awoke and grabbed his board to join me. Each set had nine waves and 3 that broke so that if you didn’t catch them, they would catch you! I have always enjoyed getting wiped out and tossed around by a wave. The power of the ocean puts you right in your place, and if you surrender, it’s a fun ride!

I know the general stereotypical image of a surfer is a sun bleached, burn-out type whose reality is partying, babes and waves. There is nothing wrong with this described lifestyle, but I have come find more to surfing. My experience with surfing has led me to believe it is one of the most spiritual activities I have ever done. It is a sacrament to harmony.

The experience in itself is divine. As a sport, it is challenging to learn and has a longer learning curve than the average exercise. It takes strength, balance, flexibility and ease in the water to be a surfer. But these physical attributes alone do not constitute the ability to be a good surfer. There is a state of mind and awareness that is necessary to surf.

The term “catch a wave” is very common and perfectly describes what you must do. The wave has its own powerful energy and if you don’t “catch it”, it will go on without you. In order to catch the wave, you must be in the right position in the ocean, and then you must paddle at the right speed. In a spiritual sense, you must meet its energy and that is when you can soar! This is true harmony with nature and because of this, surfing has changed my life!

I must say that surfing naked feels really good!  We laughed with complete joy at how delicious our lives were at that moment. We were surfing on our own private cove, naked on choice waves with no competition from any other surfer! The colors were so vibrant. The water was a clear blue, the sand was powdery white and the sun warm gold. When I see Eddie surfing, it is almost unbearable how enamored I am of him. To see his bum, held tight on top of the board, as he paddles is a sight that floods my senses with a heat.

We paddled over to Trunk Bay, the neighboring bay and caught surf over there. The coconut trees are so low there that you can pull the ripe coconuts off yourself ( not common!) Ripe coconuts have the sweet milk, or coconut water as some people call it. This beach is completely unspoiled as Rogue’s Bay. We were blessed with a piece of driftwood with a nail on it, which was perfect to open our coconuts. They were the sweetest milk ever – since they were ripened in the sun with the mother tree’s love. We were deliriously happy.

 

Surfing

Whoever said that there was no surfing in the Caribbean was seriously mistaken. Sure, it’s not as consistent or frequently good as Hawaii, California or even Florida, but here are the pictures to prove that it does exist. The water is so clear blue and being able to see to the bottom brings good feelings of safety for those afraid of the unknown.